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News Articles - Helpful topics and advice / answers from questions posted above
Wagner Wallperfect W687E
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| Thursday 12th May 2011 |
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Following the succesful Wagner W665 Wallperfect, Wagner have launched into the UK through MP Tools the W687E.
This has two guns included this time, one of the original wallperfect 1800ml guns and now a metal cup HVLP gun for the more intricate tasks.
The metal gun adds a touch of 'pro' to the package and is ideal for trim finishes such as eggshells and varnishes.
The variable airflow control is on the 2 stage turbine itself making this a flexible system for the DIY'er or light professional use.
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Fitting your Ironmongery
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| Friday 19th February 2011 |
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It is an important part of any project to select the right tools for the job in hand. Equally, when fitting ironmongery to internal or external doors, cupboards and bathroom furniture it is an important part of the process to consider the correct power tools that will be required for the job.
It is best to consider at the outset what kind of power tools you prefer to use. Set aside the fact of the technicalities of the job, such as the density and type of wood, or furniture you are fitting the ironmongery to, it is essential that you consider your usage. For instance, if you think you will use these important power tools again and again, then it may be worth considering investing in the higher end of the market, however if you intend only to use them the once and then they will be retired to the garage to collect dust for the rest of their lifetime, gathering rust at the back of some dingy out of reach shelf, then you may consider not spending as much.
Once this has been decided another important factor to consider is whether you prefer to use a cordless power tool, or a traditional electric corded one. This done, next take a good look at the project, consider is it just going to be the one type of power tool that you will use, such as a drill and the appropriate sized drill bits, or are their extra power tools required. If so, it will most likely to work out cheaper if you buy the whole power tool range together as a set rather than as individual items as the job requires them.
Another consideration may the manufacturer of the power tool. For example some companies are well known for producing and specialising in certain power tools and certain craftsmen will be essentially loyal to that brand, though it is safe to say that the need for the correct power tool will of course as stated before, depend greatly on the job in hand. A craftsman may have a need for an industrial version of the power tool that you will need for your job, but it is less likely that you will need such hard wearing, industrial power tools. Also, it is fairly important that you check the usability of the power tool. There can be quite a difference in weight between the corded version of the power drill and the cordless type. You will need to hold it in your hand and make sure that you can work with power tool comfortably, manoeuvre into those tricky little upside down places that will need drilling. As is always the way with these things, there are big pros and cons for both kin ds of power tools.
Once all this has been decided and you are comfortable with your choice, i.e., that it is suitable for the project, comfortable to hold and in the right price range, then a final check on your tick list will be the warranty cover. It can be really useful to have a good warranty cover on your power tool and these do vary greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer.
If you choose wisely at the outset of your project, should you decide to embark at a later date on a more ambitious job such as the installation of a space saving Pocket Door, (these doors slide into their own casing), you will easily glide through this and the lighter job of fitting any Pocket door hardware easily.
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Buying a Compressor
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| Friday 19th November 2010 |
| What size of air compressor do I need?
1.Figure out your tool’s air requirement: This question can be answered by knowing the air requirements or cubic feet per minute, or “cfm”, of the tools you are using or plan to use. Some tools consume more air than others. Tools such as pneumatic nail-guns and staplers consume smaller amounts of air, while air grinders and sprayers consume larger amounts. Most tools have a usage rating for cfm consumption at a recommended PSI. This can be found on the tool itself or in the owner’s manual supplied by the tool manufacturer.
***One tool at a time: If you are the only person using the compressor, you should find the tool you will use that requires the largest cfm. Use this cfm to determine the size of compressor you need.
***More than one tool at a time: If more than one tool will be used at any one time, add up the cfm for all the tools that will be used at the same time (from largest cfm to smallest) and use this total cfm to determine the size of the compressor you need.
Now you know the required (delivered) cfm you need.
Note: If your tool operates well below or above 100psi, you should keep in mind that as you drop in PSI usage you get a slightly higher cfm and vice versa.
2. Use “Delivered” or “Free” CFM Rating for Compressors, Not “Displaced” CFM:
To correctly size the right compressor for you, you will need to understand the difference between “displaced” cfm and “delivered” cfm or “free” air. Displaced cfm is the cfm produced by a compressor working in a perfect environment at 100% efficiency. This rating that is published by some manufacturers can be misleading. On paper it is the result of a mathematical equation (Bore x Stroke x Rpm). No compressor ever made is 100% efficient no matter how new! Therefore you should make sure to go by “delivered” cfm.
3. Select the right compressor for you:
Take the required cfm in step #1 and add 20%. This number you will use to make your selection. Match up the new cfm with the “delivered” cfm rating for the compressor.
Does Horsepower rating really matter?
The answer is no.
When an air compressor is built, it requires a motor or engine to power the process of producing air. The horsepower is not the only component of the equation. It has to be combined with the compressor pump that it runs to produce the air needed. The bigger the horsepower does not necessarily mean more air. Remember to keep your required cfm in mind. Horsepower does not make you work more efficiently, but horsepower working in unison with a quality pump that produces enough cfm for your needs.
BEWARE: Make sure when shopping that you look for the running horsepower and not the peak horsepower you get at startup. Some manufacturers have falsely advertised or implied the peak horsepower to be the normal run horsepower. At start-up, there is a surge of power needed to start the motor and can be 1.5-3 times the amount of running power needed. This means the horsepower need for the motor peaks as well, but then drops back down to normal. Many of these manufacturers are involved in a class-action lawsuit for misrepresentation. They have used man’s machismo of “the more horsepower, the better” to their advantage to make sales. These aren’t cars we’re talking about!
What voltage do I have to Run On?
Most direct-drive electric compressors can run on a standard 220-240volt circuit. When you get into the electric wheelbarrow compressors, you may have a choice for a dual-voltage option, which allows you to switch between 110-volt and 220-volt, depending on power supply that is available for the job. However, for jobs that require substantially more air, usually a 220-volt motor will be your only choice if a gas-powered compressor is not allowed as an option. When looking for a stationary shop compressor, you need to know what power supply you have at your disposal (208v, 230v, or 460v), and whether it is a single-phase or three-phase power. These units are usually hard-wired into the power supply and require a magnetic starter for thermal overload protection.
Can I run an air compressor on a generator?
We do not recommend that you use a generator to power your compressor if no power is available at the jobsite. Serious damage can be done to your compressor motor when sudden fluctuations in power from a generator occur. This is considered improper usage and will void any warranty on the compressor. It is easy for the manufacturer to find damage that occurred because the compressor has been run on a generator.
SUGGESTION: You may want to consider using a gas-powered compressor when there is no power supply available, or the power supply is to far away. Also use the suggested length and gauge of power cord as noted in the user manual.
REMEMBER: It is always better to use longer (and larger diameter) hose than a longer cord.
Most electric tools have an initial start-up surge. This means they need more power to start-up than they need to run. Many times the power required to start-up is 3 times the amount needed to run. This also means the amp-draw is 3 times as much!
Do I need a Stop-Start, or Constant-Run compressor?
We need to define what we mean by “stop-start” and “constant-run”:
Stop-Start: This means that a pressure switch is used to automatically turn on and off the compressor at designated low and high-pressure levels. When switched on, the pressure in the tank builds to a certain psi (pounds per square-inch) and then automatically turns off. When air is used, the psi in the tank is reduced and eventually reaches a low setting where the pressure switch automatically turns back on to build psi back to the high point. This operation is common for smaller electric, direct-drive compressors and some smaller wheelbarrow electric compressors.
Constant-Run: This means that the motor continues to run and as a result continues to turn the pump. When the tank reaches the high-pressure setting, a pilot unloader-valve opens to atmosphere so that the compressor can continue to run. The valve will close again when the psi is at the low point and begin to direct air back into the tank and re-build to the high-pressure point. This setup is used more often when using tools that require a heavy and constant flow of air without interruption, such as a grinder or sander or sprayer.
(NOTE: Normally if a compressor stops and starts more than 20 times per hour, you need to use a constant-run setup. If not, you are in danger of ruining the motor due to excessive heat build up. Stopping and starting so often creates a huge amount of heat, more than if the motor stays running all the time.)
You can find compressors that have a “dual-control” option built on to the compressor where you can switch back and forth between stop-start and constant-run depending on the situation.
All gas-powered compressors are set up with this unloader-valve system because an engine cannot stop itself and start up again. It will only idle-down and speed-up at set psi levels via a throttle-control mechanism.
What size tank do I need?
Tank size only becomes a factor for one reason – A larger tank for air. A compressor will run until the pressure in the tank builds to its high-pressure point. Obviously, the bigger the tank, the longer it takes to consume the compressed air. However, the downfall is that once the air is depleted, it takes a lot longer for the air tank to refill with pressurized air. I would only go with the bigger tank if I am concerned about the motor starting and stopping too often, or if I know that I will need a constant flow of air in longer intervals. You have a choice between a larger tank and a constant-run unit.
Should I buy an “Oil-less” or “Oil-Lubricated” compressor?
All reciprocating compressors have a series of pistons that pump up and down inside their individual cylinders to compress the air to a higher pressure. This rubbing creates friction, which creates heat. In order to conserve the life of the pump, you need some type of protection. Some pumps are “splash” lubricated with oil and some have a teflon-type lining in the cylinder.
Oil-less compressors are adequate for lighter use applications and have the advantage of being able to run off-level without worry, however even though they are considered low-maintenance, they tend to wear much quicker due to more heat build-up and repair costs could be extensive.
Oil-lubricated compressors have the advantage of keeping the pump running cooler and lasting much longer and are built for the professional who takes pride in ownership and will maintain his equipment. However the key is to make sure the compressor sits level so the “splash”-lubrication is effective and reaches all cylinders. If run off-level, it can score the cylinder and do heavy damage over a short period of time. It is very difficult to claim warranty for the owner in this case.
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Making your Battery Choice
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| Thursday 12th August 2010 |
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"What is the difference between NiMH and NiCd. How do Lithium Ion batteries work compared to the others?"
To tackle this question we have to look at the criteria for making the power tool battery decision. And then bring Lithium Ion into the equation to round out the choices when you're next making a power tool purchase decision.
You should be looking at a battery's run time, life cycle, volts and amp-hour rating.
Run Time
Quite simply run time is the amount of work a tool can do before its charge runs out.
Life Cycle
Life cycle is how many times the battery can be recharged during its life time.
Volts (Power)
Volts will determine work output of the tool. John Sara, cordless product manager for Milwaukee Electric Tool, says "Individuals currently using a 18-volt NiCad battery, should see 2 - 21/2 times more work output from a V28."
Amp-Hour Rating
The higher the Amp-Hour rating the longer the battery lasts - be aware that power tool batteries of the same voltage will often have different Amp-Hour ratings.
NiMH vs. NiCad vs. Li Ion: Picking What's Right for You
Nickel metal hydride (NiMH) Batteries:
A nickel metal hydride battery, abbreviated NiMH, is a type of rechargeable battery similar to a nickel-cadmium (NiCd) battery but has a hydrogen-absorbing alloy for the anode instead of cadmium. Like in NiCd batteries, nickel is the cathode.'
Nickel metal hydride (NiMH) advantages:
-- lighter than NiCad
-- 2-3X capacity to equal size NiCad
Nickel metal hydride (NiMH) disadvantages:
-- fewer life cycles compared to NiCad
-- shorter run time
-- performs the worst in cold temperatures, so keep that in mind if you plan to use tools powered by
NiMH outdoors in cold weather
-- higher self-discharge level than NiCad
-- voltage drop at near-discharged levels
Nickel cadmium (NiCd) Batteries:
Commonly abbreviated NiCd and pronounced 'nye-cad' is a popular type of rechargeable battery for portable electronics and toys using the metals nickel (Ni) and cadmium (Cd) as the active chemicals.'
Nickel cadmium (NiCad) advantages:
-- longer life cycles
-- performs in cold temperatures (perform well to 20F)
-- lower self-discharge level than NiMH
-- no voltage drop at near discharged levels
Nickel cadmium (NiCad) disadvantages:
-- Heavy, making it harder to use for longer periods of time
-- May suffer from 'Memory Effect' or 'False Bottom Effect' if constantly discharged half-way and then recharged.
The Lithium ion (Li-Ion) Battery:
The new comer to power tool batteries, Lithium Ion are hot because they have 'one of the best energy-to-weight ratios, no memory effect and a slow loss of charge when not in use,'
Lithium ion (Li-Ion) advantages:
-- High performance in cold weather - to 0F - great for winter outdoor use
-- Light weight. You can lift tools powered by Lithium Ion over your head all day.
-- Increased life cycles over NiCad and NiMH, so it keeps going past other batteries
-- more rapid charge times that get you back on the job more quickly
Lithium ion (Li-Ion) disadvantages:
-- less tested than other battery formats - in early stages of development
-- has a shelf life based on life of battery, not related to charge or charge time
-- can sometimes erupt or explode in high heat - hot cars, direct sunlight, etc, or sometimes after tampering. a more dangerous battery than the others
-- permanent damage to battery if stored at too-low discharge level, so be careful and keep these charged well
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Spray Tanning Machines
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| Thursday 27th May 2010 |
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Spray Tanning machines are HVLP spraying units with a small needle tip to give a fine 'mist' output. The tips are usually between 0.6mm and 1mm in size depending on the manufacturer. It is also most common to have a smaller than average pot (250ml seems most common) as you will only need about 80ml of product for a full body spray.
The smaller pot also makes it easier on the wrist and can be more flexible to get in the more awkward areas!
We have a number of spray tan machine choices varying from £80 up to £300. If you are a professional tan applicator the larger machines will give consistent and reliable use day in day out. For a home self tanning machine only a small machine is required as you will only need it 2 or 3 times a month.
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Drill Bits
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| Thursday 25th February 2010 |
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Drill bits are cutting tools used to create cylindrical holes. Bits are held in a tool called a drill, which rotates them and provides torque and axial force to create the hole. Specialized bits are also available for non-cylindrical-shaped holes.
This wikipedia article describes the types of drill bits in terms of the design of the cutter. The other end of the drill bit, the shank, is described in the drill bit shank article. Drill bits come in standard sizes, described in the drill bit sizes article. A comprehensive drill and tap size chart lists metric and imperial sized drills alongside the required screw tap sizes.
The term drill can refer to a drilling machine, or can refer to a drill bit for use in a drilling machine. In this article, for clarity, drill bit or bit is used throughout to refer to a bit for use in a drilling machine, and drill refers always to a drilling machine.
Read full article
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Wagner Wallperfect
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| Friday 22nd January 2010 |
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Wagner have launched the new Wallperfect HVLP system recently. Although it is an HVLP system it is specifically designed to spray emulsion onto walls. There is a good product video to give you an idea of the capabilities of this machine on this site.
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Workwear for Shooting?
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| Tuesday 29th December 2009 |
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Recently I took up clay pigeon shooting and started buying the necessary equipment from the local gunsmiths. I soon realised that the price tag on shooting related products was much higher than on products we sell for the tradesman. For example DeWalt safety glasses come in very cool effects and are half the price of unbranded 'shooting safety glasses' with the same safety specs(no pun intended). The same with ear defenders and gloves, I found the proper shooting gloves at £48 and a pair of similar Irwin contractor gloves at £8 a £40 saving was too much to refuse.
I know..cheapscate! you cry.. but when starting out why not... although I have to admit turning up at the shooting ground with a Irwin toolbelt turned heads but it was perfect for carrying the cartridges.
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Buying a Heater - How to Work out the BTU Required
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| Tuesday 2nd December 2009 |
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Here's a somewhat rough way to figure this out:
1) First, multiply the square footage of your room by the height of it's ceiling. This will give you it's volume in cubic feet.
2) Multiply the room's volume by 4 if it has poor insulation; by 3 if it's insulation is average (3.5" thick insulated walls); by 2 if it has good insulation (6" thick insulated walls). This will give you a rough estimate of how many BTU's you need.
For example, a 10' x 10' room with a 8' ceiling is 800 cubic feet. It has average insulation, so we multiply 800 by 3, giving us 2400 BTU's.
Please keep in mind that this formula is very rough and does not take into account the climate you live in or your personal temperature preferences. If you live in a colder climate or prefer a higher temperature, you will need a heater with a higher BTU rating.
Since the power of many heaters is described in watts, rather than BTU's, you may still be left in the cold. To convert watts to BTU's, multiply the watts by 3.4. A standard 1500 watt heater typically puts out about 5100 BTU's.
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Choosing a Drill
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| Tuesday 24th November 2009 |
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Think realistically about what kind of work your new drill will do. Cordless drills are more convenient, but you'll need a mains one for serious jobs.
Cordless drills
Cordless drills are by far the best for light tasks, such as drilling interior walls or doors, and can whizz through screwdriving jobs painlessly. They're convenient too − there's no trailing flex, so you can take your drill wherever you please.
The tougher the task, the faster the battery drains. They're generally slower and vibrate a lot more than corded drills.
You'll need a mains drill for serious tasks, as cordless drills can't generate enough turning speed to drill into the hardest substances.
Mains drills
Rotary drills
Rotary drills are ideal for basic DIY tasks, such as drilling holes to hang pictures. They rely on fast rotation (around 3,000rpm) so are best for small holes or on softer materials such as wood, metal or plastic.
Percussion drills
Percussion drills rotate at around 3,000 revs per minute (rpm) but for more power their hammer action pounds the turning drill bit at around 40,000 blows a minute.
Simple DIY jobs, and softer stone such as limestone or light concrete, are no problem. Hard stone, such as granite, produces strong vibration and noise because you need to push harder to activate the hammer action.
Most percussion drills have one gear but two gears give better screwdriving control.
Hammer drills
Hammer drills are best for sustained or heavy-duty drilling in hard materials, such as granite or very hard concrete. They have a pneumatic action, giving around 5,000 blows a minute to the rotating bit. This provides most of the force, so high speed isn't necessary.
For light jobs, with no hammer function, they're slow and can be awkward to handle. Chisel attachments can be added for removing lumps of masonry.
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Keep it Sharp
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| Saturday 14th November 2009 |
| It is important to note that a user hurts or cuts himself only when the tool is dull. A hand tool in a good working condition will do its work efficiently without any effort on the part of the worker. It is seen that when blades are dull, the worker has to exert great pressure to cut , which in turn may off balance the worker leading to his slip or fall. That is why the blades of the cutting tools should always be be kept sharp. |
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Welding Types
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| Monday 9th November 2009 |
When you think about welding you might think that there is only one type of welding This is a common idea because most people only see the finished product. However, there are many different types of welding that you might find interesting.
Welding is a way of joining metals to each other to make them firm and the metal forms a bond that is tight. There are a variety of bonds that are done depending on the types of welding you use.
Types of welding fit under categories as listed here:
Gas welding
This type of welding creates a flame from a burning gas and this creates the welding heat that is needed. You will see this in the following types of welding:
Propane torches - people use this when they want to sweat a joint or when they want to solder two pieces of metal together. This is one of the lowest heats and can be used for small things.
Oxyacetylene torch - this heat gets a bit hotter and many people say this is the most universal type of welding tool you can find. This is used when you need a very hot flame. This type of torch will weld a variety of things as long as you have the right metals and tools for it. It is generally used when you want to cut, braze, weld or solder something that requires a higher heat. You have to be careful though because it is a type of heat that can be difficult to control and it can sometimes overheat the area.
Oxy-propane - this type of welding is used when you want to solder, braze or heat something. This is a cheaper form of both of the types of welding that was first listed.
Arc welding
This type of welding creates the heat through the use of an electric arc. The types of welding that are done through this type of welding include:
Basic AC & DC arc welders - when you are looking for a way to weld either heavy gauge steel or cast iron this is the type of welding to use. It uses rods that you guide along the place to be weld and these are made of flux coated steel or other materials.
MIG (Metal Inert Gas) - this is a very quick way of welding and some say it is easier to do than regular arch welding It is done through the use of a DC arc and it uses filler metal that is used with a spool of thin wire. You use inert gas instead of flux. This is usually used with steal bodywork and is a good choice when you need to weld sheet metal.
TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) - this type of welding uses an AC arc that is of high frequency and it is combined with a tungsten electrode that is shielded by inert gas. This comes together to create a torch that is controllable. This is a good choice to weld very thin metals together. If you are working with aluminum or stainless steel this is a good choice.
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Evolution of Hand Tools
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| Thursday 29th October 2009 |
| The story of the evolution of hand tools was not one of continual development as there are periods when progress was slow or even went backwards. The first sign of use of hand tools came in the stone age. There is evidence of Romans making and using tools and some tools of the Roman age are still used today. Machine tools occasioned a rise in producing new hand tools in the industrial revolution of eighteenth century. During the Victorian period, a craftsman's hand tools were his main source of earning. Specialist crafts and hand tools were developed period after period to turn wood and metal into useful things. Carpenters, sawyers, carvers, joiners etc. have all used the different types of hand tools in their operation. Every stage of the manufacturing process had its special tool, from hammers, saws and axes to chisels and gouges. |
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Hand Tools & Civilization
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| Wednesday 28th October 2009 |
| Most research scholars believe that the use of hand tools was an important step in the evolution of mankind. Hand tools tell us about the society that made them. The more developed a society, the more tools it produces, and the more tools it uses. While discovering and inventing many new things, humans had evolved an opposable thumb, which was useful in holding tools, and increased dramatically in intelligence, which helped in the use of tools. |
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very prompt, will definately order from here again. very pleased with my purchase.
Susan H.See more
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